Korean label Songzio celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2023, five years after Jay Song took the reins from founder father Zio Song. To mark three decades, he mined the avant-garde house’s archives for codes to use as cues for this outing. A collection of historically inspired menswear had notes of modernity in an inventive use of textiles to relieve buttoned-up up shapes of their stiffness.
Traditional Korean pleating was a key element, interpreted as panels on jackets, as well as long strips of light fabric layered on high-necked tops for a billowing effect. Trousers were floor-grazing with oversized cuffs, constructed with a light touch that added swing and movement. Some of the trousers unzipped like concentric circles, layering each piece for an undone and eccentric fit that might be difficult to pull off in the real world. The concept worked well on shorts, which unzipped at the knee. The accent gave the garment movement.
Song has a deft touch with outerwear, and proved it again this season on a moto jacket that recalled lamellar armor, and coats with wide shoulders and deeply-cut Vs that tied at the waist, taking notes from traditional Korean dressing. Song also introduced a new shape with wingback jackets which incorporated an organza panel for a fluid touch.
The incorporation of color has been a slow burn, away from the avant-garde house’s traditional black that resulted in bright bursts of coral, vermillion and lemon this season. Metallics also came into play as panels, while a sculptural vest appeared in a sea blue.
Many of the pieces were not only fluid in movement, but seemed genderless. It is fitting then that the ambitious young designer is launching womenswear in early 2024. Now that he has mined the archival ideas, Song can shed the past for a fresh take on what’s to come.