Pharrell Hits a Billion, Moschino Taps Yu, Dior’s Bright Touch – WWD

ONE BILLION: Pharrell Williamsdebut show for Louis Vuitton was a ratings hit.

The spring 2024 menswear collection broke records by garnering 775 million views on its owned platforms, and an additional 300 million video views on press accounts, covering both livestream and content around the show and attending celebrities including Beyoncé, Rihanna, Zendaya and Kim Kardashian.

By comparison, its fall 2023 show, which featured a live performance by Rosalía, generated 441 million views on the brand’s platforms, Vuitton said. It did not provide a figure for organic views on media accounts for last season.

The world’s biggest luxury brand reported the event, held on the Pont Neuf bridge on the opening day of Paris Fashion Week Men’s, generated a huge volume of online discussion, with more than 42,000 original posts mentioning the show and 1.2 million re-tweets.

In the wake of the runway display, the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned brand broke the threshold of 3 million subscribers on YouTube, making it the most followed luxury label on the platform, with 15 million views of the main film of the show.

Prior to the event, which included a performance by Jay-Z, Vuitton reached 10 million followers on TikTok, making it the leader among luxury brands on that platform as well. The number has since grown to 11.1 million followers.

The brand has garnered more than 1.7 billion views and 65 million likes since it launched on TikTok in 2020. The live broadcast of the menswear show on TikTok was viewed by 1 million people and garnered 2 million likes. In the space of a few hours, the luxury house gained 100,000 new followers, it said. — JOELLE DIDERICH

MOSCHIN-YU: Moschino is adding to the wave of ambassadorship announcements, naming Chinese musician, actress and entertainer Yu Shu Xin, aka Esther Yu, its new house ambassador. 

Esther Yu wearing a Moschino pre-fall 2023 look.

Esther Yu wearing a Moschino pre-fall 2023 look.

Courtesy of Moschino

Appearing in the label’s pre-fall 2023 advertising campaign, Yu has been tapped because “her charismatic intuition and enchanting performances seamlessly harmonize with the brand’s bold and avant-garde spirit,” according to a statement released by the brand, which is controlled by Aeffe Group.

“Esther’s captivating presence in front of the camera, coupled with her affinity to timeless style and fashion as a means of self-expression, perfectly embodies Moschino’s ethos,” said Massimo Ferretti, chairman of Aeffe. 

“Moschino’s fashion attitude has always resonated with me and their unwavering commitment to innovation sets an exceptional industry standard. I am deeply honored to collaborate with the brand as house ambassador, and eagerly anticipate creating exciting moments together,” added Yu.

Yu made her acting debut in the 2016 television drama “Border Town Prodigal,” followed by appearances in “The Advisors Alliance” in 2017 and “Youth” in 2018.

In 2020, Yu participated in the variety program “Youth With You 2” and became one of the most popular trainees on the show, debuting as a member of temporary girl group The9. That same year, she gained popularity and recognition for her role in the hit romance drama “Find Yourself,” followed by the “Moonlight” TV series in 2021 and the fantasy show “Love Between Fairy and Devil” last year.

Last month, Yu was seen in Paris attending the Givenchy men’s spring 2024 fashion show.

As for Moschino’s shows, the upcoming one is scheduled for Sept. 21 in Milan and set to mark the brand’s 40th anniversary. 

As reported, the event during Milan Fashion Week will pay tribute to the achievements and legacy of founder Franco Moschino. For the occasion, stylists Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Katie Grand, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson and Lucia Liu will spearhead the collection, each creating 10 contemporary looks inspired by the works of the late designer.

Moschino has not yet revealed a successor to its last creative director Jeremy Scott, who exited the brand in March after 10 years. — SANDRA SALIBIAN

REBEL YELL: Maria Grazia Chiuri’s fall collection for Dior was a mostly monochrome affair, but for the advertising campaign, Brigitte Niedermair bathed models in a halo of color. Ana Oliveira, Maryel Uchida, Florencia Mayer, Sophia Lisboa and Abeny Nhial are outlined in luminous green, blue or pink in the images.  

Chiuri was inspired by the ’50s — the heyday of founder Christian Dior that remains the bedrock of the luxury brand’s communications strategy.

But rather than rehashing archival designs, the designer delved into the stories of three heroines who shaped the post-war years in Paris. Dior’s sister Catherine, a French Resistance fighter during World War II, and singers Édith Piaf and Juliette Gréco inspired a lineup that had more than a touch of beatnik about it.

The Dior fall 2023 ready-to-wear campaign

The Dior fall 2023 ready-to-wear campaign.

Brigitte Niedermair/Courtesy of Dior

Lisboa channeled an androgynous vibe in a crinkled men’s shirt and tie paired with baggy jeans, while Oliveira projected retro chic in a black moiré effect trench coat with a draped shawl collar. Accessories included the Dior Key and Dior Toujours handbags.

Niedermair provided the creative direction for the campaign, set to break in print on Saturday. It was styled by Elin Svahn, with Peter Philips in charge of makeup and Olivier Schawalder doing hair.  The sets were designed by Alexander Bock, a regular collaborator of the house.

Niedermair’s decade-long relationship with Dior was the subject of a coffee-table book published by Rizzoli New York last year. “Photographie: Christian Dior by Brigitte Niedermair” featured her elegantly sparse images of Chiuri’s designs alongside her forensic take on the French fashion house’s archives. — J.D.

TEAM SPIRIT: Jean-François Palus, second-in-command at French luxury group Kering since 2008, would most certainly applaud this fashion trend: Rugby shirts made a minor comeback during the recent men’s fashion weeks for spring 2024.

Jean-François Palus and François-Henri Pinault

Jean-François Palus and François-Henri Pinault

Courtesy of Kering

Palus was captain of his university rugby team, and the sport seems to have shaped him as a person, and a business leader, an audience in Paris heard Thursday night as the executive was decorated with an Ordre national du Mérite, a French honorific for distinguished civil achievements.

Serge Weinberg, chief executive officer of Kering’s precursor PPR until 2005, did the honors, pinning the vivid blue medallion on Palus’ left lapel in front of a crowd that included Kering chairman and CEO François-Henri Pinault, sustainability executive Marie-Claire Daveu, Kering Beauté chief Raffaella Cornaggia, Bottega Veneta CEO Bartolomeo Rongone and Pascal Morand, executive president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

Over 32 years working for the Pinault family, initially with its timber business, later with its Fnac and Conforama retail chains, Palus would settle into mostly financial roles at the group level, also overseeing mergers and acquisitions for several years.

Weinberg suggested rugby likely impacted Palus’ negotiating technique, “and the often manly way in which you approach certain subjects or express certain opinions.”

“You are there, you, with your convictions — sincere, loyal, courageous,” he said, also jesting that Palus had to balance his passion for sports with the need to wear slightly fitted Brioni suits for business.

A soft-spoken, low-key executive who chose a scruffy, mid-laugh photo of himself for Kering’s corporate website, Palus said he insisted on the conglomerate’s Left Bank headquarters to receive the honor “to clearly mark what it represents in my eyes: Recognition shared with group employees.

“In rugby, the star is the team,” he explained. “It imposes a sense of community and solidarity.”

Pinault was the first to congratulate Palus, kissing him on both cheeks. Then guests repaired to the garden for Champagne and nibbles, enjoying the breezy summer evening.

A graduate of French business school HEC, Palus started his career with Arthur Andersen as an auditor and financial adviser.

He became group chief financial officer in 2005 before assuming his current role of group managing director. In that capacity, he contributes to the development of the group’s strategy, manages its implementation and ensures optimal operational efficiency.

In addition, Palus been a member of Kering’s board since 2009. — MILES SOCHA

GUCCI FETES SINNER: Winner, winner, Gucci dinner.

The luxury Italian brand hosted a private dinner at Mount St. Restaurant in Mayfair for tennis player and Gucci ambassador Jannik Sinner, who signed on with the brand last year.

Guests including Emma Laird, Paapa Essiedu, Olympia of Greece, Pixie Geldof, Imogen Kwok and Jazzy de Lisser came together for the pre-game celebrations.

Sinner will be competing for a third time at the Wimbledon Championships. He’s currently ranked at number eight at 21 years old.

Olympia of Greece.

Courtesy of Gucci/James D.Kelly

This is the Italian player’s first luxury fashion endorsement. He also has a 10-year deal with Nike, which according to reports is worth 150 million euros.

Earlier this month, Gucci took over The Savoy hotel to celebrate its Bamboo 1947 bag with a cocktail reception and dinner hosted by De Lisser, who has become a friend of the house.

Drinks took place in the Royal Suite by Gucci at the hotel, a place where the Italian brand has strong connections.

In the early 20th century, Guccio Gucci worked as a luggage porter at The Savoy. His observations of guests coming in and out with their exquisite luggage is what inspired him to start an artisanal luggage atelier in 1921.

Emma Laird Jannik sinner

Jannik Sinner and Emma Laird

Courtesy of Gucci/James D.Kelly

In 2021, the hotel collaborated with Gucci on the transformation of the Royal Suite, featuring pieces from the Gucci Décor line: wallpaper with the brand’s double G logo; monogrammed cushions; scented candles, and more.

Last year, Gucci set up shop inside London’s famed luxury hotel, taking over the Savoy Tea Shop on the ground floor for three months, which usually sells tea and cake.
The short residency was a celebration of Gucci’s travel offerings, including trunks, trolleys, duffel bags, suitcases, garment bags, travel sets, stationery and pet accessories. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED

PRADA’S THAI EXTENSION: The fourth edition of Prada Extends, a series of global events created in partnership with electronic musician Richie Hawtin, traveled to Bangkok on Thursday, hosting a panel discussion and a party at the Warehouse Stadium in the city’s Khlong Toei district.

Thai stars including Pongtiwat Tangwancharoen, Kanyawee Songmuang and Krissanapoom Pibulsonggram attended the event held at the Prada store inside upscale shopping mall Iconsiam, where they attended exchanges between Hawtin and Arun Ramanathan, director of the international media platform Mixmag Asia, on the power of music today. It was followed by a performance by Bangkok DJ and music curator Elaheh.

Richie Hawtin and Arun Ramanathan attend Prada Extends Bangkok

Richie Hawtin and Arun Ramanathan attend Prada Extends Bangkok.

Getty Images for Prada

At night, the Prada Extends party offered a lineup that featured Hawtin himself, Elaheh, Vietnam-born DJ and former model BongBongQuayQuay, and Sarayu, DJ and producer, also known as a member of UNSTๆ, an electronic artist collective based in Bangkok.

Their music performances were accompanied by visual arts from two Thai talents, Chaiyapat Natt Plubsiri and Supitchkran Sriprasert. Both of them have worked closely with Hawtin’s long-term collaborator Ali Demirel.

First introduced in London in November 2021, Prada Extends traveled to Tokyo and the Faena Forum Miami last year. For Hawtin, the Bangkok edition celebrated “the diversity and intensity of this vast metropolis, connecting the local creative community through an experience in sight and sound.”

“For me, Bangkok resonates with a unique frequency attracting a distinctive collection of like-minded people from across Asia. The dance floor brought together a true melting pot of ideas and inspiration,” he added. — TIANWEI ZHANG

LONDON SUNSHINE: Nicky and Simone Zimmermann are taking the Australian sun with them everywhere they go.

“We hit our high point particularly in the summer. This time of year is just amazing for us. We walk into the stores and it’s so busy, which is always a thrill,” said Simone Zimmermann, cofounder of the label with her sister, Nicky, during an interview in London.

The sisters recently shot their resort 2024 collection in Pennsylvania in an old house that was crumbling and falling down, which reminded them of the dance halls of the ‘50s and ‘60s.

“I noticed when I was away in Madrid last year for a store opening and then later in Paris that there were couples and people dancing in the streets, it was just something you would not see in Australia,” Nicky said.

Nicky Simone zimmermann

Nicky and Simone Zimmermann

Courtesy of Zimmermann

“It made us look into dance halls and I just found all these amazing candid images, which is where the collection came from,” she added.

The sisters always feel surprised when they’re traveling and see women wearing Zimmermann.

“I was in Monte Carlo, which is not necessarily somewhere where we would go on holiday, but we’re going to open a store there soon. I was walking around with my husband and a couple of friends and I counted one, two, three, oh my God, I’m very happy we’re opening a store here,” said Nicky, keeping the date of the new store under wraps.

The Australian brand made its Paris Fashion Week debut in 2022 with a show at the Petit Palais, where it has set up a secondary design office. Prior to that, Zimmermann presented its collections at New York Fashion Week. — H.M.

SNEAKER COLLAB: American footwear and clothing brand Autry has teamed up with 10 Corso Como to create a new limited-edition sneaker — the Medalist shoe — inspired by vintage models from the ’80s.

The unisex sneakers are available in white and are made of leather. The 10 Corso Como black logo appears on the tongue, insole and heel of the shoes.

The 10 Corso Como x Autry sneakers.

The 10 Corso Como x Autry sneakers.

Courtesy Image

The 10 Corso Como x Autry sneakers retail at 210 euros and are available to purchase at Milan’s storied 10 Corso Como store address, at Forte Village in Sardinia and on its e-commerce site.

Autry was created in 1982 in Texas by Jim Autry and rapidly became known for its American flag logo. The brand was relaunched internationally in 2019 in the sneaker and ready-to-wear segments.

With a 2022 turnover of 90 million euros, the brand today is distributed in Europe, Asia and the U.S.

In 2021, the Made in Italy Fund, which is managed by Quadrivio and Pambianco and invests in wine, food, beauty, fashion and furniture, took a majority stake in Autry and footwear brand Ghoud. The fund has invested in 10 Italian companies, of which six are in fashion, from 120% Lino and Rosantica to Dondup and GCDS.

Two years ago, Autry launched its first apparel collection. 

Previous 10 Corso Como partnerships included a tie-up in January with Plan C, and another in February with Giorgio Armani.

The capsule collection with Armani was presented during Milan Fashion Week and included oversize shirts, duster coats, blouses, shorts and high-waisted trousers, all in unwashed denim.

With Plan C, the capsule included the brand’s signature canvas tote style, which mixed the 10 Corso Como logo with the Pili and Bianca hand-sketched characters conceived by Plan C founder Carolina Castiglioni’s daughter Margherita, of her brother Filippo and friend Bianca. — ANDREA ONATE

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