Officine Générale RTW Spring 2024 – WWD

The cold and rainy spring took its toll on northern Europeans, and none more so than Pierre Mahéo, who marked the end of the bad weather by adding a rainbow of color to his beloved palette of gray, navy, brown and black.

The designer wanted to push boundaries this season, too, and offer his customers more than the neutral, monochrome looks that have become his signature. “I’ve taken off my blinders, and I’m no longer designing just for myself, but for a variety of customers,” said the designer.

The collection was full of clean lines and bold color blocking. Mahéo teamed khaki shirts and jackets with deep purple trousers, or shorts, and tucked a languid, burnt orange blouse into the waist of a swishy gray skirt.

A tone-on-tone teal suit was full of the joys of spring, with a jaunty sprig of greenery sprouting from the top pocket. Baby blue striped cotton pyjama suits recalled seaside umbrellas, while a purple madras ensemble was equally breezy.

Mahéo refused to give up on his beloved neutrals, though, and whipped together cream, khaki and black to great effect. He teamed a white tank top with a jacket the color of clotted cream, and layered a laid back camel cardigan over a white tank and trousers.

Another ensemble showcased four slightly different shades of gray, one of Mahéo’s all-time favorite colors that will never drop off his personal rainbow.

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