Nina Ricci Taps Shipka, Cartier’s Leader’s Award, John Idol’s Pay – WWD

FORBIDDEN FRUIT: American actress Kiernan Shipka is the face of the new Nina Le Parfum scent, from Nina Ricci, which is due out in France on Monday.

“I have a very personal history with Nina, the fragrance,” said Nina Ricci designer Harris Reed. “It was the one perfume I would always play with from my mom’s collection. It had such a fascinating shape, and I have these beautiful memories of cherishing it as a keepsake. So when I started at the house, perfume was something I wanted to get my hands on quite quickly.”

Nina by Nina Ricci, the original scent in the fragrance franchise full of apple-shaped flacons, was launched in 2006. Puig is Nina Ricci’s owner.

“Finding a muse for this campaign was huge, because it is the first time that the house has a face of one of the fragrances,” Reed continued. “I immediately knew it had to be Kiernan Shipka. No one can seduce you the way an actor can — with an expression, the way of being and with an attitude.”

Shipka is part of Reed’s entourage.

“I wanted to go very bold, so we shot in a massive French castle,” they explained. “The choreography was done by the incredible Yoann Bourgeois. It was just really about creating some poetry. I want to bring back some romanticism, [bringing] the 21st-century edge to that. Kiernan brings that, a youthful optimism and claiming her naivety at the same time, so it really played into the script we were working on. She is an icon.”

Shipka first came to fame when she appeared in “Mad Men” as a child actress. She went on to star in Netflix’s “Chilling Adventures of Sabrina” for four seasons, among other projects. Most recently, Shipka stars in “White House Plumbers,” a miniseries drama about the Watergate scandal.

Kiernan Shipka

The campaign for Nina Le Parfum is set in the chateau of the Vaux-le-Vicomte in France and maintains a forbidden-fruit theme.

“With beauty, I take the fashion approach, coming with a narrative and really pushing the visuals super strong,” Reed said. “I also wanted to bring back the romanticism aspect to the bottle. I wanted it to feel like a jewel, like it’s a fantasy and not just a product sitting on a shelf.”

Nina Le Parfum was created by master perfume Olivier Cresp and perfumer Ilias Ermenidis, both of Firmenich. The juice includes notes of three apples, orange blossom, gardenia, tuberose, amber wood and vanilla.

The fruity, woody floral eau de parfum will be rolled out worldwide after France.

Nina Le Parfum joins the portfolio of clean, vegan Nina scents, which also includes Nina Rouge, Nina Extra Rouge and Nina Nature. At least 90 percent of their formula ingredients stem from nature, with some upcycled. Nina Le Parfum’s bottle is of 20 percent recycled glass. — JENNIFER WEIL

JOINING THE CLUB: Dr. Bea Bakshi, founder of U.K.-based cancer prevention group C the Signs, won the Young Leader Award Tuesday night at a ceremony in New York City.

Led by the North America chapter of Red Club x Cartier, the 2023 Young Leader Award Ceremony is an annual event which aims to provide young entrepreneurial leaders with support to grow their businesses and amplify their voices. The award goes to young entrepreneurs, between 20 and 40 years old, running impact-driven businesses or nonprofit organizations as founder or owner, and in which they hold an executive position.

“I am thrilled to welcome the second edition of the Young Leader Award in New York and celebrate these young and passionate entrepreneurial leaders. They are a constant source of awe and inspiration,” said Cartier North America chief executive officer and president Walter Bolognino, via a statement.

Themed “Bettering Lives,” the 2023 edition sheds a light on young entrepreneurial endeavors that support and empower under-represented communities by providing them more accessible, inclusive and effective health care solutions, paving the way for a better world for future generations.

Four finalists were selected in April, among 280 registrations hailing from 33 countries. Along with Bakshi, the other finalists were Dr. Tatiana Fofanova, cofounder and chief executive officer Koda Health; Neha Verma, CEO, Intelehealth, and Prabhdeep Singh, founder and CEO, Red Health.

Bakshi will take home 50,000 euros in grant money and will also benefit from international exposure, media visibility and a tailor-made mentorship program provided by the Young Leader Award academic partners, Georgetown University and Howard University, and ad-hoc coaching and mentoring sessions by Red Club x Cartier networks. The three runners-up will take home 10,000 euros in grant money and will continue their journey along the Red Club Community, joining its extended “Friends and Family” circle.

Red Club x Cartier is a global membership community of successful young multicultural entrepreneurs. — THOMAS WALLER

IDOL’S PAY: John Idol, chairman and chief executive officer of Capri Holding, saw his compensation fall 2.8 percent to $14.3 million for the fiscal year ended April 1, according to the company’s proxy statement filed with the Securities and Exchange Commission on Thursday.

The CEO’s take included a salary of $1.35 million and incentive pay of $4.3 million. 

That incentive pay equaled 320 percent of Idol’s base salary and was determined by a formula that takes into account the company’s financial performance — seen in adjusted free, adjusted gross margins and adjusted selling, general and administrative expenses — as well as environmental, social and governance targets. 

But, as is typical across the C-suites of major fashion players, most of Idol’s compensation came from stock awards, which were valued at $8.5 million — although the true value of the awards will depend on the company’s stock price. The idea is to link CEO pay to the portfolios of shareholders. 

In a letter to shareholders that was included with the filing, Idol said that while financial results for the year did not meet the company’s original expectations “many aspects of our business performed well.”

“We achieved record revenue of $1.11 billion at Versace, increasing 14 percent compared to last year, demonstrating the momentum of the brand and the success of our strategic growth initiatives,” Idol said, referring to the constant currency growth rate on a 52-week basis. “Jimmy Choo also achieved record revenue of $633 million, increasing 13 percent.…At Michael Kors, revenue of approximately $3.9 billion increased 4 percent, driven by growth in our own retail channel.”

Capri has been focused on growing its accessories business across all of its brands while also pushing footwear and racing out to new customers, including the 12.6 million names added to its database during the year.

“We believe that with Versace, Jimmy Choo and Michael Kors we have three incredibly powerful brands to drive our future growth, and we remain confident in our ability to achieve our long-term goals over time due to the resilience of the luxury industry, the strength of our three powerful iconic brands and the talented group of employees executing our strategic initiatives,” Idol said. — EVAN CLARK

DREAM TEAM: Are you dreaming about Paris Fashion Week — and what Jonathan Anderson’s next menswear collection for Loewe might look like?

Anderson and film director Luca Guadagnino have beat you to the punch, creating a short film titled “I Dreamt of Loewe” that gives a glimpse of what the designer will be showing on June 24, when Loewe’s spring 2024 show is scheduled.

Guadagnino brought his cameras to David Zwirner’s art gallery in New York to capture the two-minute film, which features a naked man sleeping on a sofa and dreaming about models in sparkly eyewear, high-waisted pants and geometric sweaters interacting with papier-mâché sculptures that look vaguely like icebergs or giant ice-cream cones splashed with paint.

A model wearing Loewe’s spring 2024 collection while inspecting a Franz West artwork.

Courtesy of Loewe

Models Andrea Isidori, Elliott McDean, Malick Anderson, Bruno Krahl and Adrians Smats are shown gazing at the works by Austrian artist Franz West, often inches from their noses.

“Their uncanny poses highlight the season’s elongated silhouettes, tactile fabrications and crystal-embellished sunglasses,” Loewe said in a brief statement.

Anderson and Guadagnino are also collaborating on the latter’s next film: The William S. Burroughs adaptation “Queer” starring Daniel Craig and Drew Starkey.

Guadagnino is best known for his 2017 feature “Call Me by Your Name” starring Timothée Chalamet and Armie Hammer as young American lovers in Italy.

Anderson frequently showcases artworks at his fashion shows for Loewe, which have become highlights of Paris Fashion Week. — MILES SOCHA

THE OUTSIDE VIEW: Frank Horvat’s dream was to join the prestigious Magnum photo agency and travel the world as a photojournalist. Instead, he ended up in the glossy pages of fashion magazines, bringing a naturalistic approach to his shoots for publications ranging from Vogue to Harper’s Bazaar.

That journey is documented in “Frank Horvat: Paris, the World, Fashion” at the Jeu de Paume museum in Paris, the first major exhibition devoted to the Italian-born photographer since his death in 2020 at the age of 92.

The show, which opens Friday, features iconic images alongside lesser-known and previously unseen photographs from the archives kept in his studio-home in Boulogne-Billancourt near Paris, now managed by his daughter Fiammetta Horvat.

Frank Horvat settled in France in 1955 after spending his teenage years in Switzerland, having fled Italian dictator Benito Mussolini’s racial laws targeting Jews, among others. He began his career working for news magazines like Epoca in Italy and Réalités in France.

Curator Virginie Chardin noted he was faithful to certain signatures, whether he was covering a wedding in Pakistan or spotlighting the latest styles from Givenchy. The human gaze anchors many of his shots, with subjects looking directly at the photographer, or reflected in a mirror.

“He was very introspective. His mother was a psychoanalyst, so he was someone who always questioned the meaning of what he was doing,” she said. “He often worked without a flash, without artificial light. That’s why the images are very grainy. That’s really his style: he loved moody atmospheres.”

Backstage at Le Sphinx nightclub, Place Pigalle, Paris, 1956.

Backstage at Le Sphinx nightclub, Place Pigalle, Paris, 1956, by Frank Horvat.

© Studio Frank Horvat, Boulogne-Billancourt

A consummate outsider, Horvat may well have been one of the world’s most reluctant fashion photographers.

Spotted by William Klein, who was intrigued by his cityscapes shot with a telephoto lens, he began to work for Jardin des Modes and quickly wowed the industry with images like his 1957 shot of model Tan Arnold standing at the counter of a bustling Paris restaurant in a cocktail dress and a long string of pearls.

“In the space of just a few years, between 1957 and 1960, he became a star photographer,” Chardin said.

Horvat heralded a lively, humorous reportage style that broke with the formal elegance of the period’s fashion photography. “It was very new at the time. Two or three years later, everyone was doing it,” the curator noted. “It coincides with the advent of ready-to-wear and the evolution of the status of women. It was speaking to women who work, who are active.”

Indeed, many of Horvat’s models had a rich life story. He cultivated relationships with the likes of Simone d’Aillencourt, Deborah Dixon and Benedetta Barzini, whom he liked to photograph with the artists and intellectuals of their time.

One particularly striking series for Harper’s Bazaar features Dixon alongside filmmaker Federico Fellini and actor Marcello Mastroianni, while Iris Bianchi is pictured with director Agnès Varda and beauty mogul Helena Rubinstein, among others.  

“He hated doll-like models. They had to be real women,” Chardin said. “He would always fight with fashion editors to prevent the models from striking ridiculous poses.”

Iris Bianchi and Marie-Louise Bousquet, Paris, French haute couture, for Harper’s Bazaar, 1962.

Iris Bianchi and Marie-Louise Bousquet, Paris, French haute couture, for Harper’s Bazaar, 1962, by Frank Horvat.

© Studio Frank Horvat, Boulogne-Billancourt

Unlike David Bailey or Richard Avedon, Horvat did not cultivate fame and quickly became disillusioned with fashion photography. “I think he must have felt a little isolated in fashion,” said his daughter. “At that time, everyone was putting on music and it was very ‘swinging’ fashion. He wasn’t like that at all. He comes across as very serious.”

Though his attempt to return to photojournalism in the early ‘60s was unsuccessful, it yielded some of the show’s most intriguing images: melancholic and surreal shots taken during an eight-month trip to locations including Rio de Janeiro, Tokyo, Los Angeles, Tel Aviv and Hong Kong.

After that, Horvat devoted more time to personal projects, including experiments with digital imagery at the crossroads between photography and painting. “He drew incredibly well, he wrote incredibly well. He spoke six languages, so he was always restless because he was impatient,” Fiammetta Horvat recalled.

“When you read his diaries, you realize he was in a sort of permanent identity crisis, but not in a negative way,” she added. “He always needed to challenge everything, so he turned the page very quickly, both personally and professionally.” — JOELLE DIDERICH

NEW AGENCY: Christiana Tien Tran, the previous co-owner of The Lions Talent Management, has launched her own agency, Lumien Creative.

“I’m thrilled to introduce to the fashion industry, where I’ve sowed my seeds for the last three decades, an expansive kaleidoscope of beauty that is intentional, co-creative, purposeful and representative of the infinite possibilities that can be created in this new chapter of talent management,” Tran said in a statement to WWD.

Christiana Tien Tran

Christiana Tien Tran

Courtesy of Lumien Creative/Branislav Jankic

Lumien Creative offers talent management and creative services globally. It is “created from an inner and outer call to redefine and evolve talent management inside the fashion industry,” notes the agency.

Current clients include models, activists, artists, singers, songwriters, environmentalists, authors and influencers. Cameron Russell, Ebonee Davis, Lulu Tenney, Sang Woo Kim, Raph, Aya Jones, Jonas Glöer, Nina Gualinga, and Lisa de Narvaez are among those signed to Lumien Creative.

Tran was at The Lions Talent Management for nearly 10 years, working as director and managing partner, then solely as managing partner for eight years, before becoming co-owner in 2021. She began her career at public relations and communications firm KCD and has also had roles at DNA Model Management, Women Model Management and Elite Model Management. Through the years, she has worked with talents such as Valentina Sampaio, Toni Garrn, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Adwoa Aboah, Shalom Harlow, Jamie Bochert, Karen Elson, Natasha Poly, Carmen Kass and Doutzen Kroes.

A first-generation Vietnamese-American, Tran currently resides in Weston, Connecticut, with her wife and their three children. — RYMA CHIKHOUNE

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