Mr. Saturday RTW Spring 2024 – WWD

Louis XIV was the original paritier, says Mr. Saturday designer Joey Gollish. The Sun King pulled all nighters performing in ballet productions and literally danced until dawn.

In keeping with the nightlife theme of his line, Gollish worked these ballet references into the collection with tufts of tulle on jackets for men, low-scoop tanks that recalled leotards, brocade suits and crystal encrusted leggings on men. Women’s looks incorporated layered tulle tops, organza capes, lace pants and fanciful headgear.

To emphasize movement, Gollish staged his show at a theater, with ballet dancers taking to the runway. Canadian National Ballet dancer Siphesihle November helped choreograph the moves.

Gollish was named creative director of Canadian brand Roots back in March, and utilized its factories and expertise to create a wash on inverted leather that appeared as a faded denim. He used the material on soft work shirts, paired with trousers and shorts for a causal suit look.

There were also plenty of Mr. Saturday’s satin bowling jackets and track suits that maintained the sordid Vegas air, as well as short sets embellished with his new logo, which will deliver as pre-collection.

With the Roots investment, Mr. Saturday has moved all of its production to Canada, much of it in an atelier close to Gollish’s office. The proximity has allowed the designer a new quality control, particularly fitting as he has stepped up his tailoring game. Here he presented camel overcoats and tuxedos to appeal more to the luxury market.

Gollish said taking on the Roots work has counterintuitively eased up his schedule as he can rely on the existing business infrastructure of the large company, and spend more time playing with ideas.

“As a young business owner it was shifting cycles of create, create, create, then switch back to the businessperson,” he said. “But now because I have to be firing on all cylinders all the time, the ideas have really been great. I’ll sketch all the time.”

It’s the best of both worlds for the young brand.

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