Designers seemed to be in a competition to outshine each other for spring 2024 as metallics rose to prominence, adding glamour to some of the season’s strongest menswear collections.
And while they may have been going for the gold, silver sightings were much more frequent. Grace Wales Bonner, for one, took long-distance runners as her inspiration for a silver track jacket with a cummerbund waist.
Elsewhere, silver was worn head-to-toe in the collections of ERL, Gucci and Marine Serre, who worked a new metal-free leather into outerwear that WWD’s Paris bureau chief Joelle Diderich observed, “bathed the wearer in a halo of light.”
Equally experimental, EgonLab’s Florentin Glémarex and Kévin Nompeix dipped a resin bustier in silver chrome, “giving men the chance to show off just like their female counterparts,” wrote London bureau chief Samantha Conti.
Embellishments also lit up the runways, like at Ami, where designer Alexandre Mattiussi covered jeans with paillettes that would be “ideal if you’re going to the Beyoncé concert,” he told Conti.
And although Dries van Noten held back on the vivacious prints with which he is now synonymous, he went full-steam ahead with pajama-like shirts and pants so densely sequined that international editor Miles Socha pointed out their “shaggy aspect.”
Sequins heightened the textural effect of looks at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Loewe as well.
Mermaidcore is also seeping into the menswear space with free-flowing, iridescent fabrics reminiscent of the ocean at Martine Rose and Wooyoungmi and sparkling starfish and scale-inspired motifs at Dsquared2.