Kolor RTW Spring 2024 – WWD

We could all use a little ice right about now.

As if anticipating our desires, Kolor’s Junichi Abe presented a snow-themed show under the blazing summer sun to make us dream of cooler climes.

The designer was inspired by his recent return to the sport he loved as a child, hitting the slopes in his native Japan. The excitement of swooshing downhill reinvigorated him, and gave him new inspiration for shapes for spring-summer. It resulted in a sportier, looser silhouette than recent seasons.

The show started with earthy looks that read as almost tribal, including a billowing white dress that added an air of hippie cool.

He also wants us to reflect on our relationship to nature. The solitary moment of being on the mountain was “scary, but it was really nice to examine myself,” he said. That idea of self-transformation translated to the clothing, which he wanted to upend.

He pulled in ski sweater motifs and reworked them with his color blocking style. Chevron shapes added sharper angles to parkas, and he reworked shorts with layers.

Snowflakes came on light, boxy sweaters, and ski suits smartly added short puffy sleeves for a playful jolt. Abe also tried a new shape with a cape sleeve that pulled from a puffer coat, and he kept his sense of humor in the collection — other open sleeves had dangling mittens at the ready.

Abe said he liked the contrast of doing a ski collection in summer, the main nod to the season came in thin fabrics, such as nylon jumpsuits that were nearly transparent and light as snow.

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