Juun.J RTW Spring 2024 – WWD

Juun.J pumped up the volume and pushed the boundaries all the way to space for his latest collection.

The Korean designer wanted to toy with the idea of video game skins, the aesthetic suit a person can buy that makes their character look cooler or prettier. That played out in tone-on-tone leather looks that were on the edge of the uncanny valley. Sequined or metallic bodysuits and exaggerated shoulders gave models an almost alien quality. An oval handbag with strategic zippers looked extraterrestrial.

Juun.J explores travel each season. Whether it’s to the stars or inside the metaverse, the collection was focused on tailoring as the designer created more formal pieces this season that will appeal to a new customer.

“Instinct,” he said, is taking him in that direction, with people focused on a new elevation after years of softness and slouch. A sparkly dress that was perfectly party ready proved the point.

Still, he kept his urban warrior aesthetic intact with padded tees and vests that strap on military style, and pockets galore leveled up cargo pants. Contrast was a key theme with the fanciful fabrics against very utilitarian denim.

Pants were wide and grazed the floor, while twisted jeans or jackets inverted and tied at the waist exaggerated the hip to hourglass proportions. Zippers opened up jackets at the sleeve, giving pieces a second life as a vest.

A bleach wash on black denim tricked the eye with 2-D trompe l’œil shading, much like looking at a screen. Sheer organza parkas and overcoats gave models a glitchy glow as they hulked along the runway.

Juun.J moves each season with tiny tweaks that stay true to his style, while the directional pieces in new textiles were a welcome addition.

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