Jeweler Dolly Cohen Debuts Tooth Jewelry and E-commerce – WWD

Known for her mouth jewelry — known as Grillz — Dolly Cohen is launching her pieces on a wider scale, launching a range of tooth jewelry via e-commerce.

“Before the website, all my pieces were special order and custom made,” the French jeweler explained. “I had a lot of frustration that I couldn’t respond to all the requests for my pieces.”

For 10 years, Cohen has been making her custom grillz, landing her an impressive celebrity following including Pharrell Williams, Rihanna, Jay-Z, Beyoncé, Madonna and more. Now she is going back to the 2000s tooth gem craze, but moving it forward, debuting a five-piece tooth jewelry offering made from diamonds and 18-karat gold. Customers can choose which tooth to place it on to enhance their smile.

As luck would have it, Cohen, who loved jewelry and wanted to pursue the craft, got her start in dentistry. “My parents couldn’t afford to pay for my dream school so I did a formation to become a dental technician instead. I realized that I had a certain ease when it comes to working with my hands and that jewelry and prosthetics were very similar. So I had the idea to combine my two passions,” the Paris-based designer reveled.

She practiced on the local kids in her neighborhood. “My bedroom became my lab. And after years of work, many artists from the music industry asked for my grillz. The same way I wanted to make grillz more aesthetic and subtle, I wanted to make tooth diamond high jewelry, and redesigned something that didn’t change since the beginning of the 2000s.”

Grillz, however, are custom, having to be fitted to the wearer’s mouth. “I can’t fully respect the [grillz] processes through a website only. I also like to meet the people to see their smile, how they speak and have the feeling of what I can make for them,” she said, making tooth jewels the ideal way to bring her work to a wider audience, with plans to expand even more.

“I have a lot to express yet,” she said. “I would love to expand my brand to all kinds of high jewelry and accessories. The tooth diamonds are just the first step.”

The five-piece fine jewelry collection retails from $300 to $800, selling at and select Dover Street Market locations globally.

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