Gaurav Gupta took a turn to the softer side for his second collection on the official calendar.
The Indian designer continued to play with the signature structure that has made him a major red carpet contender on several swooping gowns, but experimented with cushy, pillowy volume and simpler cuts this season.
Cue slinky, sequined column dresses with hoods, voluminous gowns with pleated folds, and sculptural bolero jackets.
Titled “Hiranyagarbha,” Gupta pondered the source of the universe and referenced the Indian creation story of the golden womb. Pure white looks emerged first, moving into earthy chocolates, emerald and chrysalis greens. The models walked to Indian classical music that evoked ancient ritual.
An emerald green gown with a floral swirl on the hip and exquisite draping across the body gave sculptural movement to the shape, while a high-necked sheath had strategic slashes for a bit of skin, the swirls cradling the arm.
“I’m constantly in a paradox because there is stiffness, but it’s a fluid stiffness and the structure this season is draped structure,” he said after the show. “I wanted to keep a balance between extreme art and a bit more relatable, wearable materials.”
Pantsuits with scooped, open-neck jackets and gently rounded hips were Gupta’s proposition to demonstrate wearability for couture clients, not just celebrities.
Still, he had a solid front row for a new couturier. Cardi B kept the impatient crowd waiting nearly an hour, then swooped in wearing a bright green gown with a padded hood, causing a frenzy. Meanwhile Fan Bing Bing sported a dramatic flare that emerged from the back of the gown.
The balance against last season’s very conceptual pieces brought Gupta’s collection down to earth, and he stuck the landing.